21. Juni 2006

japanese wedding wip - the muslin

as mentioned i still need a dress for my best friend´s wedding.
should be a light summer dress - nothing too "dressed up".

i browsed my mags and books and finally (after consulting the helfe-elfe and dh), i chose a pattern from this wonderful book by glorious machiko kayaki:

simple chic no.11

each pattern is provided in original size on a paper pullout

paper pattern

the lines are ALL black or dark grey! i thought i´d go blind about searching the lines that belonged to "my" pattern! could be improved, if you ask me.
alas, i found them:

my pattern on foil

sizes provided are 9, 11 and 13 (whatever...!)
i found it a little weird that the same size (11, for example) had different measurements for each pattern. that´s how i came to the thought that they don´t work from your body-measurements but provide the measurements of the FINISHED garment.

if you´re interested in seeing the two instruction pages for dress assembling, please click here and here.

i decided to make a muslin first, as the thing with those measurements made me wonder....
this is how it looks today:

no. 11 - muslin no.11 - detail of muslin

arms are wonderful, bust could be a little less saggy and the hip area is definitely too close-fitting, what i don´t want. i will need to add some width there, but i don´t know if i really adjust the breast area... with the right bra i think this could work. and those gathers make it look bigger than is. why adjust? ;)

i also think i have chosen my fabric, it´s one i bought in aschaffenburg.


today i bought some venezia-lining to layer it with. otherways there will be all eyes on me (respectively my underwear) instead on the bride. and - honestly - that´s NOT what we want (enough misery in the world...)!

yet i´m not sure if i should treat the fabrics as one layer or if i should sew two extra dresses or one with lining...
first solution seems to be the best, as you don´t see any seams through that very delicate fabric.

Kommentare :

  1. underline it!
    That works a lot better and makes hemming so much easier!

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  2. charlotte23:32

    one layer? I don't think the hem would be right. lining I'd prefer.
    but I'm no goddess, not with lining.

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  3. Two layers... definitely! Otherwise you will kill the look of the upper fabric.
    Make small seams. Maybe rolled hems... and the seam allowance with a baby seam?

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  4. i would flatline (treating the two as one) the bodice only. This way the fit in the bust would be more consistant.But i would keep the skirt lining loose, with the lining around 3 or 4cm shorter than the fashion fabric. And maybe or maybe not line the sleeves - depends on the final look and easy enough to change. imho ;)

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  5. No recommendations regarding the (not)lining from me since I do not no anything about advanced sewing... But the title of the book says "dress up, dress down"... so suiting your idea of how to dress at this wedding!

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  6. good idea, marietta!

    no advanced sewing at mangetsu's? all the purses und cute dresses are not advanced?

    was heißt auf englisch: stell dein licht nicht unter den scheffel?

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  7. conclusion:
    sleeves without lining.
    bust area will be treated as one, so there will be no visible seam around the waistline and - as marietta mentioned - it will fit better.
    skirt will be treated as two layers.
    as it´s cut on bias, i´ll try rolled hemming and normal hemming on a swatch first and then decide.

    so i will keep with what i thought.
    thank you, ladies and goddesses! ;)

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  8. Charlotte, honestly, I do not dare to sew myself a blouse (which I would love to do since around 1 1/2 years), I am too afraid of the collar.
    I think I sew mostly very simple things, that's the reason why I would categorize myself as not advanced. Kein Licht unterm Scheffel, ehrlich.

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  9. Collar-fear? No need to have it. If you can sew a bag with corners, than you can sew a collar, too! ;)

    Maddy.. good choice!

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  10. Kerstin, I'll try. First the bag, then the blouse. Paeckchenzirkel can wait ;-)

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  11. Your conclusion sounds perfect, nice and pretty on the sleeves and nice and solid on the rest. It really is lovey, I really like the breast area, nice structure. Your dress is very retro classy. Amazing work!

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  12. well, i hope the "real" dress turns out as well as you said ;)
    meanwhile i struggled with the pattern as i needed to shorten the back area because of my hollow back ...
    (kann mir jemand mal "hohlkreuz" uebersetzen? ...)

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  13. being a big fan, I'm waiting for pics of the nice dress. ommmm. ;-)

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