|I chose a pattern from an old Burda (issue 2/2005), because I love the puffed sleeves and the piping details. But, Burda may call this blouse "fitted", I dare to call it "too small around the bust, dear!"|
First, trace and cut pattern pieces.
(You didn´t need me to tell you that, right?!)
Pin tissue pattern pieces to fabric, mark all lines (don´t forget to add seam allowance to Burda-patterns!) and notches, repeat with all pattern pieces that require an interfacing, cut.
I also cut some bias band to make the piping (see checkered fabric in foreground).
As I lacked "real" piping cord I used twisted cotton cord - this will work well for the blouse, as I don´t need much stand or volume within the piping.
A very good tutorial on making you own bias band and piping can be found here.
Sew vertical front- and back seams.
As this pattern requires to press SAs to one side and topstitch, I serged the raw edges as one.
Topstitch and fix seam allowances.
Usually I would topstitch close to the edge - about 2 mm, but this time I used my patchwork foot, so this is topstitched 1/8 inch away from seamline.
Machine or hand baste piping to upper body pieces.
How to get around the edges can also be seen on this page.
Sew piped parts to body.
Press SAs up, topstitch.
I trimmed SAs afterwards.
|Close side and shoulder seams. Press.|
With right sides facing, stitch button tabs to front.
Press SAs into tabs, fold tabs, press and baste, fix tab with topstitching.
Picture shows inside and outside of tab/hem.
This usually is the point where your machine begins to skip stitches. *sigh*
It´s like: Oh, she´s doing long, plain seams. Begin to skip stitches!
Sew collar (except lower side), cut back SAs. Turn collar, press.
I pretty much like this tutorial to get neat edges ;)
As the collar will "roll", I like to adjust the lower collar.
I simply roll the pieces around my hand and pin along the roll line.
Here you can see that the lower collar can be 2 mm smaller than the upper collar piece, so I just cut the excess.
Pin or baste collar between collar stands, aligning notches.
Sew upper edge.
Clip seam allowances.
Turn and topstitch.
Worst part DONE!
Sew outer collar stand to neckline of blouse.
Baste inner collar stand to seamline.
Topstitch from outside, fixing the collar.
I´ve added some piping to the cuffs, then closed the seams.
Gather lower side of sleeve, sew to cuff.
Fold cuff to inside, fold in SA, baste to seamline.
Fix cuff with topstitching.
|Gather sleevecaps and pin to body, aligning notches.|
Set in sleeves, giving ease to sleeve.
I prefer to set in the sleeves with the armscye facing the transport of my machine, which makes it easier to avoid tucks and puckers, though the "good way" would be with armscye facing you...
Again, I just serged the SAs of the sleeve as one.
Check button placement on finished blouse.
Sometimes (don´t know why...) the marks for the buttons won´t match up after sewing, so it´s better to double-check ;)
I´ve added some of the checkered fabric to the buttons. It will fray with each washing... I think this is a nice design feature for those plain snap buttons.
DH calls it "yeehaw", but I like "I shot the sheriff" better. Maybe I should have pictured myself with my felt gun?
Get your machines ready for some plain, no-think, no-fuss Burda pattern sewing!