japanese wedding wip - the muslin

21. Juni 2006
as mentioned i still need a dress for my best friend´s wedding.
should be a light summer dress - nothing too "dressed up".

i browsed my mags and books and finally (after consulting the helfe-elfe and dh), i chose a pattern from this wonderful book by glorious machiko kayaki:

simple chic no.11

each pattern is provided in original size on a paper pullout

paper pattern

the lines are ALL black or dark grey! i thought i´d go blind about searching the lines that belonged to "my" pattern! could be improved, if you ask me.
alas, i found them:

my pattern on foil

sizes provided are 9, 11 and 13 (whatever...!)
i found it a little weird that the same size (11, for example) had different measurements for each pattern. that´s how i came to the thought that they don´t work from your body-measurements but provide the measurements of the FINISHED garment.

if you´re interested in seeing the two instruction pages for dress assembling, please click here and here.

i decided to make a muslin first, as the thing with those measurements made me wonder....
this is how it looks today:

no. 11 - muslin no.11 - detail of muslin

arms are wonderful, bust could be a little less saggy and the hip area is definitely too close-fitting, what i don´t want. i will need to add some width there, but i don´t know if i really adjust the breast area... with the right bra i think this could work. and those gathers make it look bigger than is. why adjust? ;)

i also think i have chosen my fabric, it´s one i bought in aschaffenburg.

today i bought some venezia-lining to layer it with. otherways there will be all eyes on me (respectively my underwear) instead on the bride. and - honestly - that´s NOT what we want (enough misery in the world...)!

yet i´m not sure if i should treat the fabrics as one layer or if i should sew two extra dresses or one with lining...
first solution seems to be the best, as you don´t see any seams through that very delicate fabric.


  1. underline it!
    That works a lot better and makes hemming so much easier!

  2. charlotte23:32

    one layer? I don't think the hem would be right. lining I'd prefer.
    but I'm no goddess, not with lining.

  3. Two layers... definitely! Otherwise you will kill the look of the upper fabric.
    Make small seams. Maybe rolled hems... and the seam allowance with a baby seam?

  4. i would flatline (treating the two as one) the bodice only. This way the fit in the bust would be more consistant.But i would keep the skirt lining loose, with the lining around 3 or 4cm shorter than the fashion fabric. And maybe or maybe not line the sleeves - depends on the final look and easy enough to change. imho ;)

  5. No recommendations regarding the (not)lining from me since I do not no anything about advanced sewing... But the title of the book says "dress up, dress down"... so suiting your idea of how to dress at this wedding!

  6. good idea, marietta!

    no advanced sewing at mangetsu's? all the purses und cute dresses are not advanced?

    was heißt auf englisch: stell dein licht nicht unter den scheffel?

  7. conclusion:
    sleeves without lining.
    bust area will be treated as one, so there will be no visible seam around the waistline and - as marietta mentioned - it will fit better.
    skirt will be treated as two layers.
    as it´s cut on bias, i´ll try rolled hemming and normal hemming on a swatch first and then decide.

    so i will keep with what i thought.
    thank you, ladies and goddesses! ;)

  8. Charlotte, honestly, I do not dare to sew myself a blouse (which I would love to do since around 1 1/2 years), I am too afraid of the collar.
    I think I sew mostly very simple things, that's the reason why I would categorize myself as not advanced. Kein Licht unterm Scheffel, ehrlich.

  9. Collar-fear? No need to have it. If you can sew a bag with corners, than you can sew a collar, too! ;)

    Maddy.. good choice!

  10. Kerstin, I'll try. First the bag, then the blouse. Paeckchenzirkel can wait ;-)

  11. Your conclusion sounds perfect, nice and pretty on the sleeves and nice and solid on the rest. It really is lovey, I really like the breast area, nice structure. Your dress is very retro classy. Amazing work!

  12. well, i hope the "real" dress turns out as well as you said ;)
    meanwhile i struggled with the pattern as i needed to shorten the back area because of my hollow back ...
    (kann mir jemand mal "hohlkreuz" uebersetzen? ...)

  13. being a big fan, I'm waiting for pics of the nice dress. ommmm. ;-)


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